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 The climbing history of K2, Mount Godwin Austen (8,611 metres), from the first try in 1902, until the Italian success in 1954.
1902 - THE FIRST TRY
In 1902, a six-man group of European climbers, led by theK2 Englishman Eckenstein, headed for K2. They chose the time before the monsoon. They first crossed the Baltoro glacier, which with it's length of 67 kilometres is the world's third largest. The expedition reached the mountain's foot and planned to make the attempt directly from the south over the Southeast Ridge, but when in place they came to the conclusion that the Northeast Ridge is probably much easier. Several attempts were made without success. They only reached 6,600 metres - this group had an unrealistic goal, and didn't realise their limits. At this time, early in the century, they had no idea of the difficulties in ascending such a high mountain.
1909 - THE DUKE
Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzi's large expedition to Karakorum and K2. Besides the scientific exploration, this royal adventurer also had plans for alpine operations. K2 was now scouted closely and the famous mountain photographer THE DUKEVittorio Sella took a lot of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). However, the bearers were not trained for this exposed climbing (The Sherpas were unfortunately "unknown" during the early part of the century!).
Northeast of K2, some of the expedition members reached the 6,666 metre high Savoia Saddle and from there they had a closer look at K2's giant North-Face. Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2's guardian in the west, the 7,544 metre high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 metres. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 metres) the Duke reached 7,500 metres with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest.
1929
The Italians now celebrated their 20 year anniversary in Karakorum. This time the expedition was lead by the Duke of Spoleto, the nephew of the Duke of Abruzzi. The scientific leader was Professor Ardito Desio and it is mainly to his credit that the expedition didn't return home completely without results.
The plan to try climbing K2 was abandoned and it was decided to concentrate solely upon scientific work in the Baltoro region.
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1938 - THE AMERICANS
In 1938 it was time for the next expedition, organised by the American Alpine Club and led by Charles Houston, who two years previously had been on the successful expedition to Nanda Devi. They were confident of succeeding this time too! They engaged a team of excellent Sherpas, led by the famous Pasang Kikuli. In the beginning of June the whole expedition reached the mountain.
On July 1, Camp I was established and several others followed. The weather looked stabile and clear.
On July 18, Houston and Petzoldt reached the "shoulder" at 7,740 metres and they CHARLES HOUSTONsucceeded in conquering the difficulties on the lower part of the mountain , the last high altitude camp was established at 7,530 metres.
On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt started to push upwards again, trying to find possible sites for Camp VIII. A place is found right below the top pyramid. Petzholt however, continued climbing further on, trying the rocks, his highest point is estimated to be at 7,925 metres.The sky was clear and the sun warm. Continue or not? The decision was made and they started the descent. The expedition results looked promising, for the first time K2's summit was threatened for real.
www.mountainweb.com
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